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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.